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Sunday, August 23, 2009

Huarache Azteca Restaurante

5225 York Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90042
(323) 478-9572

The signature dish, as the restaurant’s name indicates, is a Huarache. It translates to sandal in Spanish. My understanding is that Mexicans immigrating to the U.S. would wrap their feet in masa to get over the barb wire fencing safely. When they got hungry, they would just eat the dough. In 1995, L.A. Gear prototyped a sneaker designed around masa and successfully marketed it towards cholos and since then both the huarache and the huarache, have been a staple in Los Angeles culture.

$2.50 each Cabeza [left] and Adobada [right] Huarache (6)

The oblong masa base comes topped with meat, crème, cojita, onions, and cilantro. Both had a lot of flavors coming together in unison. I enjoyed the chewy bite the dough had freshly sautéed in ample fat. The depth of the dough gave it a crisp exterior and a tender center that just says homemade. Of the two meats, the adobada was superior. The heavy seasonings and marinade gave it a more complex and rich flavor. Although, I’m a big fan of head, I’ve had more memorable experiences, some of which have been in the back of a taco truck.

$2 Beef Taquito (5)

The taquito was about average. I downgraded it mainly for the lack of flavor in the beef. I would have preferred a better ratio of beef to tortilla also. On the upside, I liked the addition of Cojita (the Mexican version of Parmesan cheese), crème, and fresh avocado. For anybody making a run for the border, I read that taquitos sold in Mexico are marketing under the name tacos dorados, or golden tacos.

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