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Saturday, March 20, 2010

Urasawa

I haven't picked my groomsmen, I don't recall booking honeymoon flights, I don't even have a fiance, but for some self-induced reason the emotions of taking the plunge were within me on Saturday night. It hit me while I was heading west on Santa Monica Blvd. La Cienega Blvd. was a distant memory, past Canon, and fast approaching a left onto Rodeo Drive. I didn't have much time to turn around. The cold feet were setting in. My hands became clammy, I couldn't get my heart rate normalized. "Am I really going to go through with this?" kept darting through my head with every passing second. With her sitting next to me, I glanced in her eyes, I needed reassurance that she was the right one. No abrupt turn was in my future and a couple lights later, I pulled into the structure as this was the final stop, one that is considered life changing to most. Yet, there was no minister, just a young valet attendant and a sign that read, "2nd Floor: Urasawa."
The decor was surprisingly basic, reminiscent of a doctor's office as I walked in. This was in the heart of Rodeo Drive, I was expecting something more lavish, even if in a minimalist sense.

$350 Omakase. Add the cheapest champagne available, $130 Veuve Clicquot, some water, and the final bill was $1,070.



1. Toro, monkfish liver-ooba, myouga, topped with green onion, 23k gold and yuzu sauce (7)
I wanted more impact from the liver, but nonetheless toro and yuzu made for a refreshing start to the evening.



2. Goma Tofu (sesame tofu) with sea urchin, wasabi, 23K gold, nanohana (3)
This dish was well regarded by SIV, but I found it boring. There was so much tofu, it was hard to get any of the uni hidden inside. I think the difficulty to achieve the tofu's smoothness is what you're suppose to appreciate, I didn't really appreciate it.



3. Hasun - myoga, kobomi spring vegetable, herring roe, okra, bamboo, burdock roots (3)
These are flavors you would find as part of a traditional kaseki meal. I found it a bit underwhelming. I kind of felt I could have gotten this anywhere.





4. Sashimi - Toro, sea urchin, red snapper (8)
The toro was the best I have had, almost the fattiness and melting bite of wagyu. The snapper was decent, but the uni had a funk to it. This uni, as opposed to the sushi course, was described as being from Japan.



5. Beef tartar with osetra caviar, daikon radish with red pepper (8)
I was looking forward to this one after reading recent reviews, I love how expensive it looks. It was everything I'd had hoped for, contrasting richness from the fatty wagyu and the salty caviar. My only fault wit the dish is the portion was a bit large for one bite.



6. Yuba chawan [soymilk skin egg custard] with small shrimp, shitake mushroom, eel, sea urchin, ginko nuts, squash and topped with a bonito broth (1)
I've never had this before, so I'm not sure what the objective is, but it tasted like a bland chicken noodle soup.



7. Japanese Spring Vegetable Tempura [Fukinoto, Tsukushi, Taranome] (3)
I remember taking my first bite of tempura at Tenchi in Toyko a few years back. It was deep fried, but you could hardly tell. It was so ironically light and I was expecting the same from Chef Urasawa, it was far from and one of the disappointment of the night.



8. Houba yaki (beef, bamboo, shrimp) with a Tama miso sauce (kyoto miso) (5)
The flavor were mixed on the meats. The shrimp was tender, but the beef had a poached texture to it. The miso was similar to the sweet miso you get with cod or salmon. The down side to the dish was the extreme serving temperature. I wanted to enjoy the meat, but the sauce was so hot I just trying not to burn my tongue.



9. Shabu-shabu [hotaru squid, scallop, foie gras, beef, green onion, seaweed] (8)
Again, already consuming gold flakes, monkfish liver, osetra, wagyu, and toro, I feel like I'm paying mainly for expensive ingredients. Nearing the end of the kaseki portion of the dinner, I was hoping for a better balance of top-notch ingredients and highly skilled food preparation. Nonetheless, the meat quality could not be denied.


Sushi Segment of the Meal (10) - I don't want to analyze every piece of fish. I'll summarize by saying this was the best part of the meal and the best sushi I have had. Urasawa mentioned that sourcing the best quality fish, then treating it properly was the key to his sushi. Although, some fish is best serve live or fresh right out of the water. Most fish reach the height of their sweetness by aging it a few days, the same way one would age beef. That helps explain why it's common to have fish shipped from Japan without sacrificing freshness.


(Clockwise from top left: Toro, seared Toro, Red Snapper, Spanish Mackerel)
The highlights of this round were clearly the both toro presentations. Whether raw or seared, both just absolutely melted in my mouth. It was pure heaven.



(Clockwise from top left: Giant Clam, Bluefin Tuna, Geoduck, Skipjack)
The tuna and the geoduck were the standouts for me. It no wonder bluefin is nearing extinction and the geouck had a chewy bite expected from a mullusk, but it was so light that it was a welcomed change from all the fish.




(Clockwise from top left: Abalone, Needlefish, Chu-Toro, Uni from Santa Barbara)
First time trying needlefish and I liked the complexity of the fish. As it was coiled on the rice, it gave several textures in that one bite. This uni was a lot better than the one in the sashimi course and better than the live sea urchin I buy from the Hollywood farmer's market, must be Urasawa's magic hands. I wasn't a fan of abalone when I walked in and I wasn't when I walked out, it's unenjoyably chewy.



(Clockwise from top left: Japanese Mackerel , White Shrimp, Shitake, Live Shrimp)
Loved the fattiness of the mackerel and I always enjoy having live seafood. It would have been nice to see him prepare a lobster as well. The shitake was better than I expected, not rubbery at all, but it's not fish.




26. Beef (10)
I love how they describe it as just beef. True Wagyu beef is one of the great pleasures in this world. Urasawa imports A-10 grade, 12 being the highest on the Japanese scale. 12 he says is too fat for sushi consumption. As I watched the $1500 slab sitting on the counter, it was as though it was still alive, sweating its fat away, begging to be eaten. Absolutely beautiful.


27. Egg (10) A simple dish, but the best I have ever had. It was so light and airy, with a wonderful sweetness. I'd like to try this one at home, I think I would only have a greater appreciation for his talent.


28. Grapefruit gelee (2)
I was stuffed at this point in the evening; I wish I could have passed on the two uninspiring desserts. Adding goji berries did nothing, but help justify the cost.


29. Sesame pudding with red bean paste and chestnuts (2)
I've never been a fan of Japanese desserts and unless Urasawa chooses to push the envelope on desserts, they will just be an afterthought for a meal here.



30. Matcha and roasted green tea
This was my first time having matcha and I liked the earthy taste. Lastly, we ended with a basic fresh cup of green tea and I cannot put anything else in my belly.

The question at hand with Urasawa is what is the premium to be paid for the best quality meat. Prior to this visit, Sushi-zo was the best sushi I have had in Los Angeles. Its omakase, ~25 courses, runs $125. Personally, as sad it sounds coming from a foodie, a $225 premium is too much. Keep in mind out the door, it was $1,070 for two with wine, tax, and tip.


And at the end of the night, it still felt very much like a wedding, the night passed in a blur, way too fast. I can vaguely remember introducing myself. And what am left with? The positive memories yes, but at the forefront is the cost. Granted not $50,000, but I'm confident I could have otherwise feed 140 guests. And as with marriage, my advice would be to do it once and frequent the cheaper sushi spots on a regular basis, you know what I mean...

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Fleet Landing Restaurant

186 Concord Street
Charleston, SC 29401
(843) 722-8100
After four days of overindulging in BBQ and Southern meals, we opted for some fresh seafood at the conclusion of our trip. We had not researched Charleston as much as we would have liked, but we still had a few options laid out for seafood and Fleet Landing was opened for Sunday lunch, so it climbed to the top of our list. One of the few places with its own parking in downtown Charleston, Fleet Landing is a former naval building and although not tested on our visit, is hurricane proof. Set on the Charleston pier, we settled on a table overlooking the water.






$9 Half Dozen Chilled Oysters on the Half Shell (3)
Nothing special here, basic oysters served with crackers, lemon, and cocktail sauce. If school cafeterias served oysters, I'd imagine they would taste like the dish I had here. I was reading a Lee Bros. cookbook when I got back to L.A. and there was a recipe for a Sriracha buttermilk dipping sauce. Something along these lines would take this dish from the 1980's to the millennium in a heartbeat.




$13 Peel N' Eat Old Bay Spiced Shrimp-Chilled (5)
A little better than the oysters as these were seasoned with Old Bay. Old Bay is known to help seafood everywhere reach its full flavor potential and that's why I gave it a five.



$10 Bucket of Steamed Oysters (7)
More southern ketchup, can't wait. With the accouterments becoming beyond repetitive, a unique dish, like this one, was needed to get past this shortcoming. I eat seafood all the time, I grew up on seafood, I was born in the Carolinas, yet I've never had oysters in clusters. Shuck one oyster, flip it over, shuck another, turn it to the side, shuck another, and so on. There had of been 80 oysters in this bucket, albeit small subpar quality. Still the clusters were refreshing and was kind of cool to continue searching for every hidden mollusk.




$9 Fried Green Tomato “BLT” (7)
I enjoyed the Southern play on the traditional BLT sandwich with the substitution of a fried green tomato. And if that wasn't enough, there's applewood smoked bacon, gouda, and a roasted red pepper remoulade on foccacia. The highlight of the dish was a perfectly crisp fried tomato with the remoulade. The only flaw was getting short changed on the bacon.

Overall, not a bad meal, but I would assume Charleston has better and more innovative seafood than Fleet Landing. If it's not already, I'd imagine this place will became a tourist trap in the near future.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Peninsula Grill At Planters Inn

112 N Market St
Charleston, SC 29401
(843) 723-0700



$11 The Ultimate Coconut Cake (9)
As far as quality goes, it's up there. It could reign havoc in any Manhattan bakery. The fluffiness of the cake barely supporting the dense, rich coconut cream. My primary issue with the cake is, aside from pina coladas, I'm not much of a coconut lover. This could be on the majority of inmates' last meal request if they just replaced the coconut with peanut butter, chocolate, or even caramel.

The recipe is actually on Epicurious. I've included the link for your enjoyment.
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Giant-Coconut-Layer-Cake-105698

The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene

106 Haddrell St
Mount Pleasant, SC 29464
(843) 884-0052
An abandoned ship lied on Shem Creek in South Carolina for many years. In 1989, the wrath of Hurricane Hugo blew through Charleston and onward to Mount Pleasant. The eye of the hurricane passed right through the vessel demolishing any structure that had previously existed. That ship, the Richard and Charlene, was removed and has now become the site for one of Charleston's favorite seafood houses.

After being lost for about 20 minutes driving back and forth, passing the restaurant twice, we finally asked a passing car and he pointed us in the right direction.









$3.88 Fried Green Tomatoes (7)
To call this the best dish of the night says more about what was to come. It was however, a perfect fresh fry, just enough where the tomato still had a good bite and lightly seasoned.




$21.24 #7 Seafood Platter (5)
Fried shrimp, scallops, oysters & fish of the day, red rice, slaw, sivea beans, pup, fried hominy square
Again, the platter came freshly fried, which seems pretty basic. But numerous places fry at too low a temperature, over crowd the oil, or let it sit too long before bringing the food to the table. I would leave my positive reflections at that. Everything else is what you would expect from a southern Sizzler, soggy beans and dull red rice. The hominy was a slight bright spot.



$8 Deviled Crab (2)
I'm not sure I would be a fan of any traditional deviled crab. With fresh seafood, I'd go with the old cliche of less is more. Why take good crab meat mask it with breadcrumbs and then deep fry it.



$4.34 Banana Pudding (3)
At six times the cost of Sweatman's version, I would have expected a chunkier more homemade consistency. The quality tasted of a Jell-O box variety.

What 'The Wreck' has going for it is a lot of history, a locals charm, and the fortuitous celebrity plug. But for quality of food, you'd be better off going elsewhere to experience Charleston's culinary treasures.