Scarpetta - Los Angeles

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

225 N Canon Dr
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Neighborhood: Beverly Hills

(310) 860-7800
http://www.scottconant.com/restaurants/scarpetta/beverly-hills 


Our last trip to New York City during the 2009 holiday season involved endless hours of "food" research with extra attention given to Italian. A reservation at Babbo had always escaped me, so we had to get that in.  Leaning on the warm compliments of Frank Bruni, Convivio and Scarpetta were next on the top of our list. Convivio or Scarpetta? Some chowhounders praised Convivio, while an equal representation supported Scarpetta. We also couldn't ignore the strong write-in votes for Marea. Unfortunately, Scarpetta was squeezed out and would have to wait for another trip to the Big Apple, or would it?

Fast forward ten months and my girlfriend reads about the Scarpetta expansion to the Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills and insists we try it early while Scott Conant is hopefully in the kitchen.

Following Eater LA's coverage, I note there is a chef's counter and we call repeatedly to request a seat at the counter. With all the confusion and pressure of opening a restaurant, they still don't know exactly how they are going to utilize the counter space. After several calls to the restaurant, we finally get in touch with the Montage's catering manager and they allow us to sit there and what an unbelievable experience it turned out to be.

As we walk into what is the grandest kitchen we have set foot in, the staff of about 15 are hard at work and dressed in white uniforms, with the exception of chef Conant. He opts for a more casual attire with comfortable blue jeans and a black button up dress shirt. I would assume the black shirt works for the numerous photo ops guests are requesting at the conclusion of each meal. 

We take our seats at the most exclusive table in the restaurant. It has full view of all the stations and the private dining room is in back of us. Shortly after, the chef with one of the most reputable Italian resumes in the country stops by and introduces himself as Scott. He asks if we would like him to set a menu for us and we kindly decline. We have something different in mind, we want every pasta dish this kitchen can produce.

So, now all that's left to do is sit back and enjoy the dinner and a show.

Bread basket (8)

 Bread accompaniments - from left, eggplant caponata, mascarpone butter and citrus olive oil (7)

The bread basket includes a piece of stramboli that is the real star. Great quality salumi packed in fresh baked bread. The citrus oil was very refreshing, the mascarpone butter sounded better than it tasted and the caponata was just an afterthought.

The kitchen at 8PM

RAW YELLOWTAIL olio di zenzero, pickled red onion (7)

He starts us off with a few light bites. First is the yellowtail crudo; light refreshing and a good start to the meal.

TUNA ‘SUSCI’ marinated vegetables, preserved truffles (7)

Another light bite. It was better than most crudo I've had. The flavors complimented each other and the vegetables provided a pleasant crunchy texture. While I enjoyed the dish, it's not something I would crave and we didn't come to eat raw fish.

BEEF TARTARE hazelnuts, truffles & shaved parmigiano (9)

You usually can't win me over with truffles, but the raw beef, truffle oil, crunchy hazelnuts and buttery toast points all came together wonderfully, I love it. The strong flavors held up well to the red meat.

 PUREE OF PUMPKIN SOUP farro, almonds, spiced croutons, pumpkin oil (8)

I'm a sucker for table side presentation. Here, the soup is poured over the seasonal vegetable medley. The soup is substantial and the contrast of textures between the vegetables and the soup is harmonious. And it's not the last we'll see of that talent. He has a knack for producing the appropriate textures in dishes. 

 

CREAMY POLENTA fricassee of truffled mushrooms (10)

One of his signature dishes and rightfully so. This is a bold, velvety dish of cream, polenta, mushrooms, and more cream. A must order on any visit.

 
Chef starts his magic


'Death by Pasta'

The interlude to the pastas begins. We knew there were six on the menu and I've read of a special each night thus far. But nothing could have prepared us for the upcoming onslaught of starch he had planned for us. He apparently has his food Network set close to the Iron Chef as this would be the first of 14 pastas courses we consume over the next three hours, some on the menu, some well thought out impulses.

PASTA WITH CAVIAR housemade fussili, caviar & chives (5)

He starts us with a simple fusili topped with osetra caviar. The pasta was enviously tender. I wish I could get my pasta like this. Paired with brut champagne, it was a nice start to the main event.

SPELT PASTA pumpkin & porcini (7)

One of two pastas reserved for diners with dietary restrictions. He served us spelt pasta with pumpkin and mushrooms. Reserved for vegans? I think not, this was better than most pastas in the city.

SCIALATIELLI sorrento-style pasta, dungeness crab, sea urchin (6)

The first of the menu pastas. I expected the sea urchin to be a more pronounced component and perhaps a sliver on top, but it was just lightly incorporated in the sauce. I would have to give Battle Sea Urchin to Michael White's Spaghetti with crab. 

 Chef Scott Conant

 
 
BEET & SMOKED RICOTTA CASONSEI pistachio nuts, poppy seeds (9)

Now we're talking. He hits the flavors wonderfully here. The tender pasta with the beets, cheese and butter. Again, nailing the texture with the pistachio crumbles. Definitely recommended.

TAJARIN shaved white truffles (4)

I've always hated m.p. dishes. Just tell me how much the dish costs. Apparently less than $200 since he included it in the menu. It was a simple dish and although the pasta was superb, the dish as a whole is not something I would spend good money on just for white truffles.

PUMPKIN CAPPELLACCI amaretti, parmigiano (10)

The spaghetti is the best pasta? Really? I had to have a second helping to confirm it was as perfect as my initial bite told me. This is a lesson in the contrast of flavors and texture. Take note, the sweetness of the pumpkin heighten with some spice. Then, the contrast of the pasta and the soft filling against the amaretti crumbs is impeccable.  A must order, the surprise of the evening.

MACARONI  fonduta & porcini cream (2)

I'd assume there a few pastas the kitchen is experimenting with. This must have been one of them. A simple dish of macaroni, mushrooms, with a disappointing light fonduta on the bottom.

SPAGHETTI tomato, basil (9)

During the course of the evening, the chef mentioned that this dish is going to put his newborn through college. It's a great dish and is as simple as it sounds, yet heightened by quality ingredients and olive oil reaching every square inch of the plate. A must order.

During an early exchange, I told chef Conant I've tried the recipe at home and watched the No Reservations Technique episode. I questioned whether the butter measurements were accurate.  He chimed back that the butter was accurate, but that he might be more liberal with the olive oil. He held a cooking class teaching how to make the spaghetti and walked the class through the recipe step-by-step. As he walked around to see the students' progress, he thought to himself, "Are we making the same dish?" So, I now have the secret.  A couple more ounces of olive oil combined with a tons of experience and talent.

Public parking in Beverly Hills, $5. Dinner for two at Scarpetta, $800. Having chef Conant personally prepare and present the famed spaghetti....priceless!

CAVATELLI CARBONARA truffle zabaglione(4)

This one looked cool as it was prepared  at the table, but it lacked a pronounced flavor.

Presenting the cavatelli

AGNOLOTTI DAL PLIN mixed meat, fonduta, mushrooms, parmigiano (7)

The agnolotti was a dish I had high expectations for since Frank Bruni gave it his blessing in 2008.  It was good, similar to a few dishes I had at Per se. I couldn't find a flaw in it, but it's not something I would crave. I didn't think the shaved truffles on top were needed.

BUCKWHEAT PAPPARDELLE pickled mustard brussels sprouts & prosciutto (8)

Besides being one of my most memorable dining experiences to date, I'll remember this night as the first time I found value in those weirdos with dietary restrictions. Thanks to them, we were able to try a pleasant spelt pasta and now this. It had a funky flavor, not one for the masses, but I truly enjoyed it. One of my favorites of the evening and a definite surprise.

DUCK & FOIE GRAS RAVIOLI marsala reduction (9)

I know this dish is ordered a lot in the NYC restaurant, but I didn't think I would like it. Like Thomas Keller said, "We taste with our eyes first." And the zigzag marsala reduction presentation reminded of the Olive Garden. But, I was mistaken; the dish was conceived and just a small little pouch of extravagance. A must order, so now I have half the menu pastas at a required order.

CHESTNUT GNOCCHI filled with short ribs & sugo d’arrosto (10)

This may have been richer than the ravioli and slightly better. If I had to go back for one dish it would be the Cappellacci, but my second choice would easily be the gnocchi special. I loved the chestnut texture against the soft gnocchi and the pleasant sweetness of the short ribs.

COCONUT PANNA COTTA guava soup, caramelized pineapple (4)

I've had very few panna cottas in my life and I can't say I'll be running back for more.  The flavors are so light, it makes you beg for a little intensity. I would have preferred a fourteenth pasta.

CHOCOLATE olive oil mousse & candied hazelnuts
BICERIN frangelica ganache, espresso & cream
HAZELNUT SEMIFREDDO chocolate sorbet & hazelnut tuile (3)

This would need to be plated on a nude playmate for me to enjoy it. We were both so stuffed, it was near impossible to find pleasure in anything caloric, even chocolate. I would, however, like to go back and try the ameretto flan. Pictures of that have looked appetizing

Closing time

And that drew a conclusion to an unforgettable night. We weren't exactly sure what the bill was going to be, given we ended the meal with over 20 courses. The final tally....$200 per person for food, $100 per person for the wine pairings and a 21% imposed gratuity. $800 out the door for two and I would gladly do it again. chef Conant nails pastas on so many levels from making a very tender dough, to appropriate textures, to intense flavors, to creating a comfortable dining experience. I was taken by how mellow he was and how he hasn't allowed his celebrity to get the best of him.  The only thing I frowned upon all night was when the chef 'popped his collar' prior to posing for our picture. But, I'd much rather have the one flaw outside of the food. Maybe next time, we'll get some proteins in there.

Ludo's Fried Chicken Truck

Los Angeles, CA

twitter.com/LudoTruck
http://www.ludolefebvre.com/ludobites/ludo-fried-chicken

With all the fame and fortune Ludo Lefebvre has recently garnered, he decided to splurge and buy a car. Well, a truck to be exact. And thousands of foodies, bloggers, and socialites have waited in infamous 2 hour lines to try the one Ludobites dish that has stood out and could easily be converted to street food...the Fried Chicken.

(Original Ludo Fried Chicken)

The truck was going to be at the Dodgers Stadium Flea Market on July 18th at 9AM, so I felt I had a good chance to catch it with a short line. After the $5 entrance fee to the market, there were roughly 15 other trucks and a 30 second wait at Ludo Bites.
$7 Ludo's Signature Fried Chicken (3)
2 pieces with piquillo sauce and honey mustard sauce. First, the chicken 'nuggets' were tiny for $7. Second, The batter was similar to Chile's Chicken Crispers (it's an insult). Third, The piquillo sauce was reminiscent of ketchup and I don't put ketchup on my chicken. The honey mustard was reminiscent of Ralph's, you could get this anywhere. The seasoning was very light, about the only good thing was the use of dark meat lent to a tender finished product. This is not the Ludo Fried chicken at Breadbar that we have all fell in love with.

For a $1 extra, we got a honey-lavender biscuit (7)
The biscuit was well worth the money and I could see this being a side to a Ludo Bites dish. Sweet and rich denseness to it.

Yatai Ramen Twist at Breadbar

8718 W 3rd St
Los Angeles, CA 90048
Neighborhood: Mid-City West
(310) 205-0124 Cancel Reservation
www.breadbar.net


Warning: The following post is written by a non-Asian with extensive travels in Japan (about a week). Any ignorance of the ramen history or stereotypes of the Japanese culture should be excused.

The Japanese inspired pop-up concept was running through July 24th. We got a quick reservation before it ended since we don't get much ramen on the west side. Plus, although I enjoy ramen, I do find it to be rather boring. So, the idea of a "Twist" on ramen was pleasantly welcomed. The concept was created by Chef Kazuo Shimamura.

$8 Kale GYOZA - kale vegetarian pot stickers (5)
We went kale over pork gyozas as we wanted the "Twist." Granted, it was the first time I had kale gyozas, it will probably be the last. The kale was just too bland a filling. The crisp texture was the only aspect salvaging the dish.

$11 Spicy Miso Ramen - marinated poached egg, kurobuto pork belly, nori, bamboo shoot, kikurage Tokyo negi (7)
Better than most ramens I've had and I enjoyed the spiciness complemented by the tender p0rk belly and egg.



$14 OX tail Ramen - rich ox tail soup, truffle oil, marinated poached egg (10)
If Animal did Ramen, this is what it would taste like...perfect. The long braised oxtails just added such a sweet richness to the dish.



$18 Foie Gras Ramen - rich master stock consomme soup, chopped chives (2)
If I would have bought this dish on Ebay, I would have filed a claim as the product was not accurately described. I was expecting a rich, luxorious broth, but what arrived was Foie Gras flavored Cup Noodles. Just plain noodles with a piece of foie gras on top.



$0 Petit fours, butter balls (6)
Simple, but good.

Overall, I enjoyed the experience. The pop-up was exactly what it was intended to be, a glimpse into an individual chef's take and vision of their cuisine. A couple missteps along the way, but when it worked, it was well worth it.

Urasawa

I haven't picked my groomsmen, I don't recall booking honeymoon flights, I don't even have a fiance, but for some self-induced reason the emotions of taking the plunge were within me on Saturday night. It hit me while I was heading west on Santa Monica Blvd. La Cienega Blvd. was a distant memory, past Canon, and fast approaching a left onto Rodeo Drive. I didn't have much time to turn around. The cold feet were setting in. My hands became clammy, I couldn't get my heart rate normalized. "Am I really going to go through with this?" kept darting through my head with every passing second. With her sitting next to me, I glanced in her eyes, I needed reassurance that she was the right one. No abrupt turn was in my future and a couple lights later, I pulled into the structure as this was the final stop, one that is considered life changing to most. Yet, there was no minister, just a young valet attendant and a sign that read, "2nd Floor: Urasawa."

The decor was surprisingly basic, reminiscent of a doctor's office as I walked in. This was in the heart of Rodeo Drive, I was expecting something more lavish, even if in a minimalist sense.

$350 Omakase. Add the cheapest champagne available, $130 Veuve Clicquot, some water, and the final bill was $1,070.

1. Toro, monkfish liver-ooba, myouga, topped with green onion, 23k gold and yuzu sauce (7)
I wanted more impact from the liver, but nonetheless toro and yuzu made for a refreshing start to the evening.

2. Goma Tofu (sesame tofu) with sea urchin, wasabi, 23K gold, nanohana (3)
This dish was well regarded by SIV, but I found it boring. There was so much tofu, it was hard to get any of the uni hidden inside. I think the difficulty to achieve the tofu's smoothness is what you're suppose to appreciate, I didn't really appreciate it.

3. Hasun - myoga, kobomi spring vegetable, herring roe, okra, bamboo, burdock roots (3)
These are flavors you would find as part of a traditional kaseki meal. I found it a bit underwhelming. I kind of felt I could have gotten this anywhere.

4. Sashimi - Toro, sea urchin, red snapper (8)
The toro was the best I have had, almost the fattiness and melting bite of wagyu. The snapper was decent, but the uni had a funk to it. This uni, as opposed to the sushi course, was described as being from Japan.

5. Beef tartar with osetra caviar, daikon radish with red pepper (8)
I was looking forward to this one after reading recent reviews, I love how expensive it looks. It was everything I'd had hoped for, contrasting richness from the fatty wagyu and the salty caviar. My only fault wit the dish is the portion was a bit large for one bite.

6. Yuba chawan [soymilk skin egg custard] with small shrimp, shitake mushroom, eel, sea urchin, ginko nuts, squash and topped with a bonito broth (1)
I've never had this before, so I'm not sure what the objective is, but it tasted like a bland chicken noodle soup.

7. Japanese Spring Vegetable Tempura [Fukinoto, Tsukushi, Taranome] (3)
I remember taking my first bite of tempura at Tenchi in Toyko a few years back. It was deep fried, but you could hardly tell. It was so ironically light and I was expecting the same from Chef Urasawa, it was far from and one of the disappointment of the night.

8. Houba yaki (beef, bamboo, shrimp) with a Tama miso sauce (kyoto miso) (5)
The flavor were mixed on the meats. The shrimp was tender, but the beef had a poached texture to it. The miso was similar to the sweet miso you get with cod or salmon. The down side to the dish was the extreme serving temperature. I wanted to enjoy the meat, but the sauce was so hot I just trying not to burn my tongue.

9. Shabu-shabu [hotaru squid, scallop, foie gras, beef, green onion, seaweed] (8)
Again, already consuming gold flakes, monkfish liver, osetra, wagyu, and toro, I feel like I'm paying mainly for expensive ingredients. Nearing the end of the kaseki portion of the dinner, I was hoping for a better balance of top-notch ingredients and highly skilled food preparation. Nonetheless, the meat quality could not be denied.

Sushi Segment of the Meal (10) - I don't want to analyze every piece of fish. I'll summarize by saying this was the best part of the meal and the best sushi I have had. Urasawa mentioned that sourcing the best quality fish, then treating it properly was the key to his sushi. Although, some fish is best serve live or fresh right out of the water. Most fish reach the height of their sweetness by aging it a few days, the same way one would age beef. That helps explain why it's common to have fish shipped from Japan without sacrificing freshness.

(Clockwise from top left: Toro, seared Toro, Red Snapper, Spanish Mackerel)
The highlights of this round were clearly the both toro presentations. Whether raw or seared, both just absolutely melted in my mouth. It was pure heaven.

(Clockwise from top left: Giant Clam, Bluefin Tuna, Geoduck, Skipjack)
The tuna and the geoduck were the standouts for me. It no wonder bluefin is nearing extinction and the geouck had a chewy bite expected from a mullusk, but it was so light that it was a welcomed change from all the fish.

(Clockwise from top left: Abalone, Needlefish, Chu-Toro, Uni from Santa Barbara)

First time trying needlefish and I liked the complexity of the fish. As it was coiled on the rice, it gave several textures in that one bite. This uni was a lot better than the one in the sashimi course and better than the live sea urchin I buy from the Hollywood farmer's market, must be Urasawa's magic hands. I wasn't a fan of abalone when I walked in and I wasn't when I walked out, it's unenjoyably chewy.

(Clockwise from top left: Japanese Mackerel , White Shrimp, Shitake, Live Shrimp)

Loved the fattiness of the mackerel and I always enjoy having live seafood. It would have been nice to see him prepare a lobster as well. The shitake was better than I expected, not rubbery at all, but it's not fish.

26. Beef (10)
I love how they describe it as just beef. True Wagyu beef is one of the great pleasures in this world. Urasawa imports A-10 grade, 12 being the highest on the Japanese scale. 12 he says is too fat for sushi consumption. As I watched the $1500 slab sitting on the counter, it was as though it was still alive, sweating its fat away, begging to be eaten. Absolutely beautiful.

27. Egg (10) A simple dish, but the best I have ever had. It was so light and airy, with a wonderful sweetness. I'd like to try this one at home, I think I would only have a greater appreciation for his talent.

28. Grapefruit gelee (2)
I was stuffed at this point in the evening; I wish I could have passed on the two uninspiring desserts. Adding goji berries did nothing, but help justify the cost.

29. Sesame pudding with red bean paste and chestnuts (2)
I've never been a fan of Japanese desserts and unless Urasawa chooses to push the envelope on desserts, they will just be an afterthought for a meal here.

30. Matcha and roasted green tea
This was my first time having matcha and I liked the earthy taste. Lastly, we ended with a basic fresh cup of green tea and I cannot put anything else in my belly.

The question at hand with Urasawa is what is the premium to be paid for the best quality meat. Prior to this visit, Sushi-zo was the best sushi I have had in Los Angeles. Its omakase, ~25 courses, runs $125. Personally, as sad it sounds coming from a foodie, a $225 premium is too much. Keep in mind out the door, it was $1,070 for two with wine, tax, and tip.

And at the end of the night, it still felt very much like a wedding, the night passed in a blur, way too fast. I can vaguely remember introducing myself. And what am left with? The positive memories yes, but at the forefront is the cost. Granted not $50,000, but I'm confident I could have otherwise feed 140 guests. And as with marriage, my advice would be to do it once and frequent the cheaper sushi spots on a regular basis, you know what I mean...